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Chocolate: the bitter taste of a “sinful pleasure”

Chocolate: the bitter taste of a “sinful pleasure”

Whether it's bars, ganache, or sweets, chocolate is enjoyed, savored, and shared. But beneath the sweetness lies a bitter reality: a product that comes at a high ecological and social cost .

Demand grows, forests shrink

With an average annual consumption of 3.1 kilograms of chocolate per person in Italy and global demand increasing by 2-5% annually, the cocoa industry is rapidly expanding . This growth has led to an intensification of cultivation, particularly in Côte d'Ivoire and Ghana , which together produce nearly 60% of the world's cocoa. However, this surge in consumption comes at a cost: faced with extreme poverty, producers are forced to clear new fertile lands. In Côte d'Ivoire, for example, the forests that once covered much of the country now represent less than 10% of the national territory.

The climate also leads to a high price

This relentless pursuit of productivity comes at a significant environmental cost . Globally, deforestation is responsible for approximately 20% of greenhouse gas emissions, rising to nearly 25% in West Africa . Furthermore, cocoa plantations—typically arranged in monoculture rows—lack plant diversity, making them particularly susceptible to diseases and climate-related stresses, which can severely impact seed yields. In 2023 and 2024, harvests were dramatically impacted by a series of extreme weather events, including heavy rainfall, sudden drought, and the spread of diseases such as brown rot, which led to a sharp decline in cocoa production in Côte d'Ivoire.

As a result, cocoa prices have increased due to reduced supplies . Between January 2023 and January 2025, the price per tonne of cocoa beans increased by 365%, reaching a record high of $12,000 per tonne at the end of 2024. This price increase was quickly passed on to consumers, with the average price of Easter chocolates increasing 14% year-on-year in March 2025.

Lives are sacrificed behind the seeds

Beyond the environmental toll, cocoa plantations are facing a serious human crisis . In Côte d'Ivoire, for example, the average income of producers can be less than a dollar a day : a level of extreme poverty that forces many families to resort to child labor. It is estimated that over 800,000 children work on cocoa plantations, equivalent to one in three children in cocoa-producing regions.

While the recent rise in cocoa prices has provided some relief to producers, these gains remain insufficient to sustainably lift families out of poverty and eliminate deeply rooted practices. Without structured support and ambitious policies, the vicious cycle of poverty and child labor risks continuing.

Rethinking consumption

What can be done? One approach is to consume more responsibly . Contrary to popular belief, dark chocolate, often praised for its purity, has a larger carbon footprint than milk or white chocolate . This is due to its higher cocoa content, which increases the product's environmental impact. Producing one kilogram of dark chocolate generates an average of 17.11 kg of CO₂ emissions, compared to 12.74 kg for milk chocolate and 11.32 kg for white chocolate .

Some recommend choosing certified chocolates (organic, fair trade, etc.). However, caution is needed: not all labels are created equal. Some certifications lack rigorous controls. While organic cocoa, grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, is beneficial for biodiversity, it often produces lower yields. This can lead some producers to clear more land, potentially accelerating deforestation.

Beyond individual choices, political initiatives are beginning to take shape. In 2024, the European Union adopted two new regulations: the EU Regulation on Deforestation and Forest Degradation (EUDR) and the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CS3D). These laws require certain large companies operating in the EU to prevent and mitigate human rights and environmental violations in all their operations, including those of their foreign suppliers. In practice, this means that chocolatiers have an obligation to exercise vigilance if evidence of child labor is found among their subcontractors.

However, these advances are far from certain. In 2025, the CS3D was partially weakened by the "Omnibus" package, a series of European legislative reforms in which several member states negotiated significant relaxations of due diligence requirements. Among the concessions were the raising of the enforcement threshold, the exclusion of many intermediary firms, and the weakening of mandatory sanctions. These changes have raised serious concerns among NGOs and human rights advocates, who warn of the possibility of backsliding under pressure from industry lobbies.

Towards a more ethical chocolate

Despite the significant social and environmental challenges, giving up chocolate isn't the answer. Instead, we need to reexamine the entire production chain and choose to purchase more consciously , paying attention to product origins, certifications, and brands' social responsibility commitments.

Change must also occur at the public policy and corporate levels. Improving producers' livelihoods, enforcing stricter labor standards, and preserving remaining forests are key levers to transforming chocolate into a more ethical and sustainable pleasure.

*Credit and ESG Analyst of Crédit Mutuel Asset Management

La Repubblica

La Repubblica

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